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Take a Bite Out of the Big Apple
by Catherine Skrzypinski
Growing up in Queens, a borough of New York City,
I was just like any kid—learning my ABCs, playing catch with
my dad and trying to ride a bike without those "baby"
training wheels. At the same time, I was also perfecting the art
of folding a piece of pizza in half in order to capture the grease
and eating a Marino's Italian Ice with a wooden spoon that resembled
a tongue depressor (heaven forbid you ate it with a real spoon!).
I'll never forget losing my front baby teeth as I bit into a hard
pretzel or burning my tongue over a piping hot cup of Swiss Miss
cocoa at Shea Stadium watching the Mets. People claim that scent
triggers intense personal memories and responses, but I have to
make a case for taste, as distinct New York food institutions like
knishes, bagels and cannolis were comfort food for me for as long
as I can remember. Please join me in my gastronomic journey down
memory lane. I hope the next time you are in New York City, you
can experience these delectable dishes for yourself!
If you order a "pie" in the New York metro
area, it's not the apple or pumpkin pie you're used to having for
dessert. I learned at an early age to order a pizza pie without
saying the word "pizza," since it's understood to the
guys throwing the dough up in the air -— especially those at
New Park Pizza in Howard Beach, Queens. Once upon a time, it wasn't
their excellent pepperoni slice that made headlines.
Back in 1986, New Park Pizza was the scene of an awful
racial crime, but the pizza franchise has since rebounded from the
notorious incident. Although the wooden picnic benches aren't always
sturdy and there's an extra nip in the air in the winter, the perfect
combination of sauce, cheese and dough keeps the locals and visitors
coming back for more. New Park Pizza: 156-71 Cross Bay Blvd., Howard
Beach, Queens (Belt Parkway, exit 17)
On the way to Shea Stadium in Flushing, Queens, my
parents always seemed to get lost. Without fail, they would make
a quick pit stop at the Lemon Ice King of Corona. These homemade
Italian ices -- flavors ranging from cantaloupe, bubble gum, licorice
and tangerine to the more traditional chocolate, vanilla chip, watermelon
and the renowned lemon -- put the aforementioned yellow container
Marino's Italian Ices to shame. Yes, those are actually seeds in
your cantaloupe ice, mint leaves in your mint ice and crushed raspberry
in your raspberry ice. Peanut butter ice, loaded with chunks of
chopped peanuts has achieved cult status among its many devotees.
And yes, you'll be eating this yummy substitute for ice cream with
wooden sticks! Lemon Ice King of Corona, 52-02 108th St. Corona,
Queens (Grand Central Parkway, exit 22A)
Moving out to Long Island introduced me to a whole
new cornucopia of NY eats. Little did I know that I lived down the
block from a beloved Massapequa institution called All American.
Formerly a drive-in, this cheap fast food restaurant has hosted
many patrons over the years, including former Massapequans Alec
Baldwin, Jerry Seinfeld and the infamous Long Island gigolo Joey
Buttafuoco. But the star of All-American is its greasy french fries,
accompanied by a stellar cast of knishes (a potato pancake) and
the Double-Double (a double cheeseburger). Still the cheapest ticket
in town, a dining experience at All-American is a must if you're
heading to Jones Beach. All American Drive-In, corner of West End
Ave. and Merrick Rd., Massapequa, Long Island (Seaford Oyster Bay
Parkway, last exit)
Another Long Island food institution is one with a
high concentration of carbs —- the bagel. During high school,
the "bagel shop" was the cool place to be seen, washing
down an everything bagel with a bottle of Snapple Iced Tea. Opening
its doors in 1976, The Buttered Bagel was the first bagel shop of
its kind -- offering 30 different types of bagels; ranging from
the traditional plain, poppy, pumpernickel and onion to the more
exotic spinach, sundried tomato, blueberry and chocolate chip. The
kitschy, orange plastic picnic tables are a great place to socialize,
but beware of eavesdropping teachers and gossipy cheerleaders! The
Buttered Bagel, 4917 Merrick Rd. Massapequa, Long Island (Seaford
Oyster Bay Parkway, last exit)
Before John Cusack and Kate Beckinsale made "Serendipity"
a household word, my high school best friend Michelle introduced
me to the Frrrozen Hot Chocolates at the famed Serendipity 3 in
the Upper East Side. A quirky, colorful restaurant/ice cream parlor
filled with kids and tourists, Serendipity 3 always put a smile
on my face while I was stressed over the SATs, college applications
and the search for a date to the prom. The Frrrozen Hot Chocolate's
secret recipe combines 14 different chocolates melted together and
served in a large glass with vanilla, whipped cream and a Serendipity
3 spoon that you may keep. Although there are plenty of straws in
the dish so that you can share, one taste will convince you to hoard
the concoction for yourself. While the Frrozen Hot Chocolate is
a perennial favorite, variations on the theme include Peanut Butter
Frrrozen Hot Chocolate, Frrozen Mochaccino, Frrrozen Pineapple Lime,
Frozen Espresso and Apricot Smush. The word serendipity is defined
as a "fortunate accident," but finding the place that
serves such delicious Frrozen Hot Chocolate was definitely meant
to be! Serendipity 3: 225 East 60th Street (bet 2nd & 3rd Avenues),
New York, NY (Subway: 4, 5, 6 to 59th St. stop at Lexington Ave.)
After I graduated college, my hometown city introduced
me to the "real world," as I worked in Midtown and Lower
Manhattan at financial news wires. My lunches often consisted of
hot dogs from sketchy street vendors and pretzels so huge and greasy
that one bite may contain more than a daily allowable intake of
salt. Darcy, a former colleague of mine, would joke that there is
something very New York about such an oversized snack that dwarfs
the size of any pretzel found anywhere else. It just screams out,
"we're bigger and better!" Much like the city's attitude
itself! Working and playing in the city that never sleeps helped
me discover more NY culinary charms that I missed in my childhood.
If it's autumn in New York, then it's time for the
San Gennaro festival. My friends and I make the annual pilgrimage
down to Little Italy to enjoy the overwhelming aroma of sizzling
sausages, the predictions of the future that street side fortunetellers
reveal and the twinkling lights of the street arches as the sun
sets. After the eating and drinking revelry in the streets, I usually
make a pit stop at the famed Ferrara's, the ultra-touristy home
of the city's best cannolis imported from Italy. Decidedly the most
well-known Italian pastry, cannolis are made from crisp, hand-rolled
pastry shells that are filled with an ambrosial cream made of ricotta
cheese, miniature chocolate chips, and candied fruit. Ferrara's
also serves a wonderful New York cheesecake, but if you need to
take a breather from the crowds in Little Italy, Veniero's Pasticceria
& Cafe in the East Village is renowned for their lush ricotta
cheesecake. A perfect combination of cream cheese, sour cream and
natural flavors gives this cake the lush, velvety consistency with
a subtle hint of tartness cheesecake lovers expect. Sure, you might
be bursting out of your jeans on the way home, but everything's
excessive in New York City, right? Ferrara's: 195 Grand St. (between
Mulberry and Mott Sts.) New York, NY (Subway: N, R to Prince St.)
Veniero's Pasticceria & Cafe: 342 E. 11th St. (between 1st &
2nd Avenues), New York, NY (Subway: N, R, 4, 5, 6 to 14th St., Union
Square)
Lastly, a NYC food fiesta is far from complete without
mentioning one of my favorite ice cream shops. After a heaping plate
of dim sum and roasted duck in Chinatown, I always seem to get a
craving for ice cream -- from the Chinatown Ice Cream Factory. Feeling
like I'm in the Beijing branch of Baskin-Robbins, unique Asian flavors
such as green tea, ginger, almond cookie, red bean and taro transplant
me back to the time I spent in China. Scoops are a bargain for $2.
Sure, there's a Haagen Daaz with a cute pagoda-style roof right
down the block, but why would you go there? Chinatown Ice Cream
Factory, 65 Bayard St. (between Mott and Elizabeth Sts.), New York,
NY. (Subway: 6; N, R at Canal St)
New York City and its environs cater to those with
curious tastebuds willing to seek out exotic foods. Ranging from
Italian classics and Jewish specialties to true blue American favorites
and Asian-inspired desserts, New York covers the gourmet dishes
of the globe. To have grown up here and been exposed to this varied
cuisine throughout my life is something I'll probably never appreciate
until I don't have it at my constant disposal. It'll be nice to
know when I'm traveling around the world and take a bite out of
a cannoli in Italy, a knish in Israel or a green tea ice cream in
China, that I'll be transported back to where my heart will always
remain —- in New York City.
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